1. French Clockmakers Trademarks

Can you help identify/date my carriage clock? Discussion in 'General Clock Discussions' started. Assuming that the vast majority of these french clocks were destined for export and that English was the accepted standard for labelling of this sort? On the balance cock the labelling is in both languages (S/R, F/A). If you note on the.

Would like to buy a book on identification or setting up of 8 day, 30 day, 400 day or 1,000 day anniversary clocks; Or simply want to know a bit more about Anniversary Clock Makers and models; Then you have come to the right place! The first step is to look at the back-plate of your clock, and try to identify the factory that made it. How to Identify French Mantel Clocks By Meredith Jameson. Therefore, the absence of a company name is a good sign that the clock is French. Find antique mantel clocks made out of marble, particularly mauve, onyx, green and slate marble. Marble was a favorite stone of many French clockmakers when creating mantel clocks.

I would say about 1900. Appears your has original gilt left on the case, but hard to tell. Most of them have been polished back to the brass.When you explode your first picture it is evident that oil runs on the main wheel teeth and intermediate wheel pinion. And maybe due to inappropriate oiling, or the spring having been over oiled, then seeping out of the barrel cap and running to the wheel teeth. Wheels and pinions should be dry, because as wet, they will collect dust and grime and over time will cause wear. There does seem to a lot of dust and material threads inside the movement.Sometimes there are dates of early services scribed into the plate underneath these, there will be a screw holding it on.

I would say about 1900. Appears your has original gilt left on the case, but hard to tell.

Most of them have been polished back to the brass.When you explode your first picture it is evident that oil runs on the main wheel teeth and intermediate wheel pinion. And maybe due to inappropriate oiling, or the spring having been over oiled, then seeping out of the barrel cap and running to the wheel teeth.

Wheels and pinions should be dry, because as wet, they will collect dust and grime and over time will cause wear. There does seem to a lot of dust and material threads inside the movement.Sometimes there are dates of early services scribed into the plate underneath these, there will be a screw holding it on. Click to expand.Thank you 'shimmy'.

I am new to these clocks though have always wanted one. About your comment re: gilt on the case - what is recommended that I do with it? My instinct was to use some polisher to shine it up, but would it detract from its collectible value to do so? Should I just leave the case alone?The seller told me had brought it in to a shop a few years ago for 'cleaning and oiling' and maybe as you say it has been over-oiled by an over-zealous clock repair person.There is a fair amount of dust seen inside, in part due to the fact that the top glass is not the right one for the clock (I realized after I got it home) which leaves gaps for dust to work its way inside.

I saw a company in Canada (Perrin's) that will make up a proper glass for it for a reasonable amount ($20 or so) but you have to send them the top part of the case so they can fit it. I'll look at local solutions.I would be glad if the clock does date from around 1900, if you are correct.I will have a closer look when I have educated myself on how to take the case apart safely on one of these.Best regards.-Updated -. Yes RST, it does have a cylinder escapement, but the 'cylinder' is pretty small and in the centre underneath the balance wheel. Better look at Google images to get an idea of what to look for! They are not as rugged as the lever and are more prone to wear, other than that they work quite well. It would be nearly impossible to put a maker to the clock as these were produced in their thousands, often having a retailers name on the dial (Often english!) I will also second what shimmy has said as well.David.

Yes RST, it does have a cylinder escapement, but the 'cylinder' is pretty small and in the centre underneath the balance wheel. Better look at Google images to get an idea of what to look for! They are not as rugged as the lever and are more prone to wear, other than that they work quite well. It would be nearly impossible to put a maker to the clock as these were produced in their thousands, often having a retailers name on the dial (Often english!) I will also second what shimmy has said as well.David. Click to expand.Thanks David for confirming the escapement. Well, if you and Shimmy are right and this clock dates from around 1900, that little cylinder has stood the test of time! The clock runs very well and keeps perfect time.

I doubt I'll have it running steady, more of a 'wind once a month' to keep things limber.I'll take the case off to clean some of the dust, may get the works cleaned and properly oiled, and try to get a glass fitted for the top.And I'll mull over what to do with the finish (leave the patina, or buff it to a shiny state).Best regards. I read a good tip somewhere about wrapping a couple of elastics around the case to prevent the glass from falling out when lifting it away from the movement. However on mine, I think the risk would be more of the glass falling IN. Here is a pretty good website with photos showing how to disassemble a carriage clock. This is what I'll use when I do mine.Mine has 4 screws holding the 4 vertical pillars to the base.And 2 screws holding the movement to the base (through the two bottom movement pillars).

Yes, using elastic bands is a very good idea, otherwise the whole case falls apart. In my experience it is also useful to make a note of which pillar goes in which corner and which end upwards. Many of these clocks were hand assembled and the pillars are not always interchangeable. The last one I did had little punch marks on the pillars and corresponding marks on the corner of the base plate - you just had to match up the marks.

However, not all clock makers were so helpful and yours may not have such marks, so it is useful to keep note for later as to which pillar goes where.JTD. I read a good tip somewhere about wrapping a couple of elastics around the case to prevent the glass from falling out when lifting it away from the movement. However on mine, I think the risk would be more of the glass falling IN.

Here is a pretty good website with photos showing how to disassemble a carriage clock. This is what I'll use when I do mine.Mine has 4 screws holding the 4 vertical pillars to the base.And 2 screws holding the movement to the base (through the two bottom movement pillars).

French Clockmakers Trademarks

Aw shucks, it was nice to think that I may have stumbled upon the maker of my clock:-(Yes, it would make very reasonable and rational sense that those two stylized letters be S and F, given their position on either side of the speed adjustment lever. That is, assuming that the vast majority of these french clocks were destined for export and that English was the accepted standard for labelling of this sort? On the balance cock the labelling is in both languages (S/R, F/A).If you note on the photos of my clock and the other one above, the stylized arrow around the minute hand square arbor is the same on both clocks. Which might suggest that both came from the same maker.Steven, is your lantern clock also french-made? The arrow on yours is mostly rubbed out but it looks of a different style.I'm sure that book by Allix goes over all this stuff in excruciating detail. Maybe one day I'll get my hands on a copy.Cheers.

Yes, it would make very reasonable and rational sense that those two stylized letters be S and F, given their position on either side of the speed adjustment lever. That is, assuming that the vast majority of these french clocks were destined for export and that English was the accepted standard for labelling of this sort? On the balance cock the labelling is in both languages (S/R, F/A).If you note on the photos of my clock and the other one above, the stylized arrow around the minute hand square arbor is the same on both clocks. Which might suggest that both came from the same maker.I'm sure that book by Allix goes over all this stuff in excruciating detail. Maybe one day I'll get my hands on a copy.Cheers.

Click to expand.England was the largest export market for French carriage clocks, more were sold there than in France hence they were very often marked S and F on the backplate.One of the 'excruciating' details in Allix's book is the style of arrow can indicate the maker or it is believed a worker as many of the clocks produced in Saint Nicolas d'Aliermont were not wholly produced in a single factory but what are called outworkers were employed and one of the activities they performed was the punching of such arrows on the backplate using their own tools.