1. Ww2 Helmets Ebay

World War II German helmets will typically have a marking that will identify the plant in which the helmet was manufactured. Most original World War II German helmets will have the stamp either on the inside, back area, or on the left inside close to the chin strap. The helmets worn in WWII had few differences from the helmets employed in WWI. The model 1916 was issued to members of the Imperial German Army as a replacement of the pickelhaube, which did not offer enough protection to the wearer. WWII German Army Helmet - Field gray color with a rough texture applied to the body. Single army decal. Complete with the brown leather liner. WWII German Army M-1942 DAK Helmet - Desert camouflaged army helmet. Single decal design. Most of the leather liner is found. COmplete with the chin strap.

M1 Helmet Restorationby Bryn SpawtonOriginally published at:Note:Mr Spawton is an experienced multi impression reenactor from the United Kingdom. As such, his guide is geared towards the UK reenactor and materials available locally.

The 90th IDPG recommends RAPCO 33070 Early WWII Lustreless Olive Drab or Krylon K05299000 Camouflage Olive Drab. Additionally, 90th IDPG members have had success media blasting helmet shells or using a knotted cup brush on an angle grinder to remove old paint and texture.The Guide:As promised, the step-by-step illustrated guide to refinishing your WWII M1 helmet. This is not a 'do it in a day' process.

Although the amount of work involved probably totals no more than three hours, it is best done over about a week. Patience has its rewards.Materials needed:Nitro Mors (or similar) paint remover and suitable large brush. Approximately 4 or 5 tins of Humbrol No 155 or equivelant model enamel (not acrylic). A bag of Javis or Stockport Model Railway Scatter No 30 'SAND' Ref:JS30 or similar (actually very, very, finely ground cork).

Semi stiff, half inch oil painting brush. Something to stand the helmet on. Small glass container. Next, the whole helmet is given a flat coat of the Humbrol 155. Make sure the paint is well stirred, poor it into a glass or ceramic jar.

The paint dries much flatter if you thin it slightly with spirit. I did the inside first, then, when that was touch dry (about three hours), painted the outside. Start from the crown. Working downwards in a spiral motion to the rim. It's actually better to have slightly too much paint on the brush, rather than not enough. Brush out excess as you go. Once finished, leave to dry for at least 24 hours (if you try to apply new paint before this, the solvents in it will soften the first coat under it, and lead to dragging).

The next day, apply a second coat, inside and out, then leave to dry for another 24 hours. Obviously, I hand paint mine, but these stages could be done using a spray gun.

For the cork texture, put a whole tin of the humbrol paint into a clean glass container (with glass you can see it's clean, and you don't want anything but cork in the paint). Add scatter, until you achieve a kind of watery paste. Now stipple on the mixture, again, starting at the crown and working around. This stage, I am afraid, has to be done by hand to get the best results. You can control the amount of cork going on, and adjust accordingly. If the brush starts to become clogged, squeeze the excess cork out of it using an old rag.

Ww2 Helmets Ebay

You may want to practice on another surface first, to get your technique going.